THE PATTERN
I made this suit using Vogue 1435 for a friend’s wedding, as the English weather is often so unreliable. However, the day turned out to be too hot, and so I never actually wore it! Even so, this is a timeless outfit and the dress can be worn at any time of day or night. I am sure that it will remain in my wardrobe for many years, as the dress, especially, is so easy to wear.
I am a big fan of Tom and Linda Platt patterns: they are always so timeless and elegant! Unfortunately, my lifestyle right now does not demand some of their special occasion patterns. However, I still find myself looking longingly at them and saving them to my wish list.
THE FABRIC
The fabric is a pink and off white wool tweed purchased at my local Marrakech market. It was so cheap at just £4 / $5 a metre, that I must confess that I purchased quite a lot of it. My intention was to make various items (coat, trousers etc.)that I could mix and match.
The lining is a gorgeous heavy weight satin, also locally purchased at a similar price. I will always use the heaviest satin that I can find to line garments. It gives a feeling and look of luxury that elevates any outfit.
THE DRESS
This dress is a classic shift or column dress with the added twist of a front side split. Lengthened, it would certainly make a great evening dress.
MAKING THE DRESS
The dress is fully-lined, which I prefer. I hate arm and neck facings, finding them fussy and awkward. I will always line a dress, giving it a smooth line when worn, and it simply just feels better!
It is a straightforward dress to make, and one certainly worth having in your pattern collection if you do not have a shift dress already. Or maybe you can never have too many!
THE JACKET
This jacket has a very unusual cut, and I must admit that I am still on the fence as to whether I actually like it?
It is the tapering curved hemline of the jacket that makes it so different, and yet when worn it is this element that I am still unsure about. I love the back detailing with its top stitched seam panels. It really does elevate the jacket to a more couture look.
However, it is not a versatile jacket, and would look odd worn with anything else but this dress, or something similar. If you are looking for a special occasion jacket, then this is certainly it.
I can really see this jacket over a full length version of the dress for the evening, or even for a spring / autumn mature bride’s gown.
MAKING THE JACKET
This jacket is actually meant to be unlined, but I could not bring myself to do this for an occasion suit. The pattern, though, clearly states that the wrong side shows, so the choice is yours to make. I actually think that it is quicker to line the jacket than to finish all the exposed seams.
I simply used the same pattern pieces for the lining, cutting back the front facings by 3” / 5 cm. I really do think that it is worth the extra effort, and would recommend everyone to do this.
The jacket itself comes together easily, and the pattern instructions are easy to follow. There are no button holes and the jacket is also loose-fitting. It is therefore a really easy jacket to make for a sewer with some experience.
The collar stands up, but is can easily be turned down if you prefer. The sleeves, although full length, would equally look good as 3/4 length sleeves for a summer look.
Finally, I opted to have a frog closures made to match my fabric, which is one of the benefits of living in Morocco! You could simply add a statement button, or a covered button as illustrated on the pattern cover.
TIPS & ALTERATIONS
▪️The dress is stated as being loose-fitting. If you like your dresses to be a little form-fitting, then you may want to go down a size. I adjusted mine to fit a little more, as I found it looked a little frumpy on me when made to size.
▪️If making this dress in a plain fabric such as a wool crepe, then you may want to consider top stitching the seams to add some detailing. It would also tie the dress to the jacket a little more.
▪️I would definitely line this jacket, I think that it is too formal to leave unlined. Also the back seams do show as well as the hems!
▪️Consider making the jacket with 3/4 length sleeves for a summer look.
▪️If making the jacket again, I would consider lengthening the front panels, eliminating the shaped hemline. Even though much of the drama of the jacket would be lost. It would then be much easier to wear with other items such as a skirt. It would also look better worn over a blouse or sweater.
▪️In such a case, I would add a third closure.
CONCLUSION
Although this pattern is not particularly versatile, it is truly a classic to have in your pattern stash.
I would seriously consider making an evening version of this suit, should an occasion to wear it arise.
The dress could certainly be made time and again, and look just as good in linen or denim for the summer.
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