Why I chose to make Simplicity’s workwear jacket 9239. I had been searching for a casual workwear style jacket that could be easily worn over sweaters as well as T shirts. Simplicity 9239 seemed to fit the bill, especially with its extra wide sleeves and back pleated detail.
The Pattern
An unstructured, oversized and unlined box workwear style jacket with three style options.
With variations in sleeve designs, collar and pocket details, you can make this jacket your own.
Suggested fabrics: Broadcloth, Canvas, linen, Chino, Corduroy, Denim, Cotton, Twill and Wool.
The Fabric
I am not one for making a toile, I am too impatient. I prefer to make the first garment for a new pattern in a wearable fabric, in the hope that it is a success. I therefore choose an inexpensive fabric for my first make, as a compromise.
The fabric for this project was a cotton twill remnant from my stash, that I had previously used to make aprons. It was just over £3 / $4 a metre. I used scraps of gingham from previous projects for the Hong Kong seam binding. The jacket cost just over £8 to make.
The Make
I chose to make jacket B with patched breast pockets and hidden pockets in the side seams. There is a double reinforced collar, which is not obvious in the illustration. I did however, choose to omit the sleeve patches, as they were too much of a statement for me.
Exposed Seams
This is an unlined jacket, and so all seams are exposed. The pattern surprisingly offers no advice as to how to finish the seams, which is a large flaw in the instructions.
I chose to finish the seams with Hong Kong binding. However, you could use alternative finishes such as simply overlocking or french seams.
For ease, I finished the seams before constructing the jacket. In retrospect this worked for some areas, but left other seams bulky. In these areas I took off the binding, so as to eliminate the bulk. I would for my next project, finish the seams at a later stage, to save doubling back on myself.
To join the front and back panels, I used a zipper foot to sew close to the binding.
The Sleeves
The pattern instructions inform you to fit the cuffs to the sleeves, before attaching the sleeves to the jacket. I advise you not to do this.
Sleeves are always too long on me, and so I chose to attach the sleeves first and discovered that they are extremely long. For the sleeve to sit correctly, I had to set them down by 2 cm where they join at the under arm and cut away the excess fabric.
Once the sleeve was attached, it was then much easier to place and fit the cuffs in the correct position or me.
Setting the cuff further up the sleeve increased the opening for the gap and overlap of the cuff by 1 1/4 “ I therefore had to narrow the sleeve by the same amount to account for this. It is therefore better to attach the cuff, before finishing the gap between the cuff, rather than the reverse as instructed in the pattern.
The cuffs are supersized with this jacket and are ideal for wearing over bulky sweaters. There is quite a bit of top stitching on this jacket, which could be made into a strong detail and feature if preferred.
When attaching the cuffs, I found it easier to use a zipper foot to enable me to sew close to the edge.
The collar
The collar for view B is made up by layering a neck band and larger collar. The pattern calls for you to join them together, before then attaching them to the main jacket. I struggled to centre and fit them correctly. In the end I found it easier to join the collars one at a time.
The Construction
The fabric was substantial enough, and so I omitted interfacing where required or suggested for the facings or cuffs.
Made up in a cotton twill, this jacket looks and feels more like a workwear jacket. I therefore chose to finish the jacket with metal studs rather than buttons. For me this complimented the minimal understated style of the jacket perfectly.
Alterations & Tips
All seams are unfinished and exposed, you will need to take this into consideration when making the jacket. The pattern offers no instruction as to how to finish the seams.
I chose to finish the seams with Hong Kong binding, but you could use French seams or simply overlock to finish. No finishes are suggested in the pattern instructions.
An alternative would be to line the jacket, especially if making the jacket in a wool or corduroy for the cooler months.
Fitting the sleeves before fitting the cuffs is advisable to obtain the correct sleeve length. I had to shorten my sleeves considerably.
I found it easier to add the double collar in two stages rather than one. You could simply cut the collar as one piece to make it even easier.
The jacket is oversized, so you may wish to consider going down a size.
I omitted interfacing the jacket as I did not feel that the fabric I used required it, and it proved to be correct.
Conclusion
I actually love this jacket more than I thought I would. It is incredibly comfortable to wear and is such a practical jacket to layer, due to the boxy cut.
Depending on the fabric used, this could be a box style shirt made in a light weight linen or cotton. Alternatively, made in a twill, corduroy or wool it is a perfect casual jacket for the autumn or winter. There is of course always the option to make the now popular shacket!
It can be made in a variety of lengths from cropped at the waist, hip length or even long to the knee.
The sleeves can be made with a simple hemmed finish, or top stitched oversized cuff. There is an option of patches at the elbow for a practical work wear finish.
Collars can be a simple cropped band, to classic shirt collar.
Finally there is the choice of patch pockets, hidden side pockets or both!
The more that you look at this pattern, you realise just how versatile it is. Although not shown, I see no reason why it cannot be made as a unisex jacket also.
It is definitely a great pattern to add to your collection, and a good alternative similar indie patterns available such as :
Merchant & Mills: Ottoline & Men’s Forman Jackets
Birgitta Helmerssa: Bell & Workwear Jackets
The Modern Sewing Co: Potters Jacket & Overshirt
Ready to Sew: Julian Chore Jacket
Closet Core: Sienna Chore Jacket
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